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Introduction, classification and quality evaluation of interlining


 The traditional clothing technology is to sew the clothing materials together by hand. Later, due to the development of bonding technology, lining cloth was produced, and bonding was used instead of sewing, which brought new changes to the clothing technology.

 
Interlining
 
Introduction to interlining
 
Interlining is a kind of special garment accessories attached to the inner surface of garment fabric and playing the role of shape preservation, shaping and modeling. The utility model is applied to the collar, cuff, large body, hem, pocket opening, placket, hanging edge, trouser waist, etc. of clothing, and can also be applied to shoes and hats, bags, cushions, etc.
 
Classification of interlining
 
At present, the lining cloth can be divided into four categories: black carbon lining, horsetail lining, resin lining and adhesive lining.
 
1. Black carbon lining is made of cotton, chemical fiber, wool, pure or blended as warp yarn. It has unique natural elasticity, stiffness and warp drapability. It is mainly used in medium and high-grade suits and coats.
 
2. Horsetail lining is a kind of wool lining with horsetail as weft yarn. It has natural rigidity, elasticity and small shrinkage. It is a kind of high-grade wool lining.
 
3. Resin lining is finished with high polymer resin, which has the characteristics of rigidity, small shrinkage and stable size. It is mostly used in collar lining, waist lining, hat lining and so on.
 
4. The adhesive lining is made by coating hot-melt rubber powder on the base cloth, which can achieve the role of garment modeling and shape preservation. It has the advantages of good washing resistance and no deformation after repeated washing. It is mostly used in clothing, shoes and hats, decorations, etc.
 
Bonding mechanism of adhesive lining
 
The adhesion of adhesive lining mainly comes from the thermoplastic of hot melt adhesive. At normal temperature, the hot melt adhesive is "glassy"; With the increase of temperature, the hot melt adhesive becomes soft and elastic, showing a "high elastic state"; When the temperature continues to rise to the melting temperature, the hot melt adhesive melts and flows in a "viscous flow state". These three states are reversible.
 
Quality evaluation of interlining
 
External quality: the base cloth has good uniformity, good resilience, good hand feel, no defects, no wrinkles, consistent width, uniform and reasonable distribution of glue points, no leakage points, no powder falling, appropriate glue amount, etc.
 
Internal quality: the heat shrinkage and shrinkage of the interlining are small, the adhesion fastness is high, and there is no blistering and deformation after washing.
 
In addition, although interlining is used as garment lining, its quality requirements are stricter than fabric in some aspects. The reason is very simple, because the quality problem of a small piece of lining can affect the use value of a garment. As a textile, interlining should not only do general appearance quality inspection, but also focus on the requirements of its internal quality and performance, so as to ensure the use value of clothing.


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